Winter Watering (shared):

I’m in the process of switching all my waterers¬† over to rubberized containers for use in the winter. Even if they have a heater in them, when THEY DO FREEZE SOLID in Minnesota, they’re easy to dump and refill than rigid plastic and won’t break like plastic buckets/troughs do. I really like the protected cord on the de-icer below as it prevents curious goats from chewing it.

All Season Grain Feeding:

My goats fight over a trough so I wouldn’t recommend a trough to someone just starting off.

Rigid fencing for training on electric:

You’ll want three or four of these. Get them locally to avoid shipping fees on heavy objects.

Livestock panel @ Fleet Farm

For hay feeding:

If your goats can stick their heads through a fence somewhere, put the hay on the opposite side so they can reach through to eat it, but can’t play in it and spread it around, wasting it, or poop or pee in it. That’s what straw is for. If you don’t have a space they can reach through…

Goat Care:


Premier 1 Heat Lamp

Premier 1 Fence Battery/AC Energizer

Develop a good relationship with the vet. I use Cold Spring Veterinary Clinic, out of St. Joe, for the easy stuff. They will also do farm visits if necessary. And if you need to take your animal in, they’ll make you go to either their equine clinic in St. Joseph, or to Cold Spring. I don’t give my goats any treatment until I’ve had the vet run fecal and/or blood tests. No sense in helping create resistant diseases and parasites by blanketly treating the herd without that they even have something in the first place. Coccidiosis is common among young goats and I have had to treat for that once after having a fecal done.

Speaking of fecals, or for milking…